Christmas in Rome: A Complete Guide to the Festive Season

By Anthia Vlassopoulou
Co-founder and CEO of Greece Insiders, writing about Greek travel since 2012

Christmas in Rome is special. The city is quieter and more personal than the bustling tourist center it normally is. The crowds thin and the soft December light highlights the old stone streets. Even the church bells sound carries further. The Vatican’s nativity scene, the Befana Market at Piazza Navona and the tables of family and friends enjoying seafood and panettone are the main ways that Romans celebrate Christmas.

In this guide to Christmas in Rome, you can read about the weather, the best markets and the best spots to explore. We also talk about the opening hours of the shops and restaurants on December 25 and how Romans . We also provide you with a sample itinerary for Christmas Day and some practical tips.

Is Rome Good to Visit at Christmas?

Rome is a city worth visiting during Christmas time. Especially true for those who prefer the atmosphere rather than crowds of tourists. December is a much quieter month than spring and summer, so even the biggest attractions are quite calm. A city of faith, Rome celebrates with Nativity Scenes, candlelit churches and calm piazzas. Do keep in mind that many museums in Rome close on December 25, and it gets cold in the evenings.

Weather in Rome at Christmas

Rome in December is mild compared to the rest of Europe. In December, the average temperature is about 45 – 57ºF or 7 – 14ºC. Early December is dry and calm. Mid-December is the coolest, with some rain, and the pattern only gets wetter as the month goes on. The last week of the year around Christmas and New Year’s can be quite cold and windy. So a warm coat, layers and waterproof shoes should cover you for the entire month of December.

Christmas Markets in Rome

Rome does not have large alpine style Christmas markets such as those in Vienna or Strasbourg. But it does have a long established tradition of Christmas markets of its own. Not surprisingly the most popular sit in the historic center and the most famous of all is in Piazza Navona, open from early December until Epiphany.

Piazza Navona’s “Befana Market”: History and What to Expect

Locals often call it the Befana Market. The same Befana who during the Epiphany season (January 6th) distributes gifts to all the good children, riding a broom throughout the country. Centuries ago the same area of Piazza Navona used to host a sort of market where local farmers sold their produce. Today, it has local artisans and seasonal candy vendors. Sometimes street performers will join in on the action too. To enjoy the market most, it’s best to go there on a weekday morning. The Market fills up with locals and visitors on the weekends. The fountains and the lights of the square will make for nice photo backgrounds.

Smaller and Lesser-Known Markets Around the City

A host of smaller market stalls spread throughout the town for the whole of December. A selection of local food producers and artisans display their best work, lots of local ceramics and some really unique and high quality handmade gifts. Many of the local holiday villages set up in local parks with ice rinks and lots of activities for children. These events are generally local and have a really relaxed atmosphere.

What to Buy: Local Treats and Handmade Gifts

Torrone, panettone and pandoro are available with local handcrafted articles such as nativity figures, ceramics and leather articles. Ornaments, usually made by local artists, are better than mass-produced imported articles. Ideal souvenirs too. On the spot-made chocolate and spiced cookies can easily be packed for the return journey. Articles made of ceramics are typical keepsakes of the season.

Vatican Christmas in Rome

The Vatican sits at the heart of Rome’s celebrations. Each year thousands of pilgrims and tourists from all over the world come to the Vatican to celebrate Christmas. St. Peter’s Square, with its huge tree and giant nativity scene, is the focal point. There is also a special ritual at Santa Maria in Aracoeli which adds a further dimension to your Vatican Christmas experience.

St. Peter’s Square: The Tree and Nativity Scene

Every year in December, a large evergreen tree lights up near the central obelisk in the Piazza. A tradition dating back to 1982. The life-sized nativity scene is unveiled on Christmas Eve and throughout the holiday season attracts crowds of people. It is possible to visit the Piazza in the early morning or after dark to enjoy it without the crowds of people that throng the square during the midday rush for major Vatican events.

Attending Midnight Mass at St. Peter’s Basilica

The Pope celebrates Midnight Mass on Christmas Eve inside St. Peter’s Basilica. Large crowds attend the celebration, even though the Basilica can only hold 15,000 people. Tickets are free, but you have to book them in advance through the Prefecture of the Papal Household. There are security checks in place, so it is best to arrive early. Wait times can be long, so be sure to dress warmly.

The Santo Bambino Ritual at Santa Maria in Aracoeli

This small church near Capitoline Hill, contains a beautiful jeweled statue of the Christ child, the Santo Bambino. It sits in a glass case for the whole year and then, at midnight on Christmas Eve, it is presented to the congregation. A moment that children are especially waiting for. It is said that the Bambino’s lips are reddening when a prayer is going to be answered.

Rome’s Most Beautiful Nativity Scenes Beyond the Vatican

Rome’s presepi tradition extends far beyond the walls of the Vatican. Each year Piazza del Popolo hosts an exhibition of around 100 nativity scenes by professional artists and schoolchildren from all over Rome. Most of them are traditional but some are also really modern.

Many historic churches in Rome also have presepi on show, again each with its own special characteristics, and this kind of slow, church-to-church wander suits senior travel in Greece and Italy alike. For example, the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore displays five wooden planks, said to have come from the manger in the stable in Bethlehem.

Christmas Lights: The Best Neighborhoods to Explore at Night

There is a preference for elegance over excess in Rome’s Christmas lights, and the historic center of Rome is magnificently bright along Via del Corso, Via dei Condotti and the Spanish Steps after dark.

Trastevere is picturesque during the night, when its narrow alleys are full with simple string lights attached to walls. Monti has an even more local and quiet atmosphere, where small boutiques and wine bars decorate with simple lights, creating a charming setting. Walking through Rome’s different neighborhoods during night, can give you a complete idea of how Rome dresses up for the season. If evenings like this sound like your kind of trip, explore our Rome trip packages or request a personalized itinerary built around the season’s best moments.

Things to Do in Rome at Christmas

December in Rome, aside from the many markets and Vatican activities, is a calendar full of things to see and do for culture and family. The calm pace of the season allows for the best way to appreciate live performances, temporary exhibitions and sightseeing of a lighter kind.

There are plenty of fun activities for children as well as more low-key experiences for adults seeking an escape.

Seasonal Concerts, Opera, and Exhibitions

Cultural activities in December are many and include classical concerts in historical churches as well as opera in Rome’s major theaters, alongside the rest of the city’s year-round landmarks. Many events are specially programmed for the holidays, including choral and orchestral concerts.

Temporary exhibitions are organized by museums and other cultural institutions. Check their websites for information, as well as on concerts. It is wise to book in advance, as the most popular concerts fill up quickly during the peak weeks of December.

Family-Friendly Activities (Ice Skating, Holiday Villages)

Rome also celebrates the holiday season with temporary ice skating rinks, holiday villages, and children’s activities in parks and piazzas. While these holiday attractions are scattered throughout the city, some of them are set up in the same areas as the Christmas markets. Therefore, you can easily visit these attractions.

The season is slow and kids are welcome at major sites, which makes December a good window for family trips to Italy overall. Fewer people around mean shorter queues and kids can take their time to enjoy things.

Quiet Day Trips to Escape the Holiday Crowds

For those celebrating the holidays outside of Rome’s bustling city center, there are several towns and villages within about an hour’s journey that offer a quieter alternative. Visiting such towns as Tivoli or the Castelli Romani for a day trip makes for an enjoyable break from the big city’s holiday festivities, especially around Christmas Eve and Day.

The small towns just outside of Rome can offer a nice change of pace. While the markets and piazzas can be busy, they are worlds away from the large crowds and bustling streets of Rome’s city center.

What to Do in Rome on Christmas Day

On Christmas Day in Rome you can celebrate at your own pace. Most museums are closed as well as shops. The public transport runs on a holiday schedule which is less frequent than usual.

That doesn’t mean there’s nothing to do. Churches will be open, as well as a number of cafes and hotel restaurants. The main event of the day is to walk around the city and experience the peaceful atmosphere of the empty streets.

What Is Open in Rome on December 25

While many museums, shops, restaurants and attractions close for the day, most churches, including St. Peter’s Basilica, remain open. The hotel restaurants and bars, as well as a few trattorias located in the tourist areas of the historic center, are open as usual.

Major museums such as the Vatican Museums, and shops are closed. Public transport will be running on a reduced number of holiday services, therefore it is best to walk or take a taxi.

A Sample Christmas Day Itinerary

Start in the early morning with a quiet walk along the streets of Trastevere, before the churches fill up. Then go to St. Peter’s Square to see the nativity scene and the tree there in the daylight.

By early afternoon, a church should be less crowded. A late lunch or early dinner at a hotel restaurant or a trattoria is best. Most places in the neighborhood are usually full and won’t accommodate walk-ins.

End your night with a stroll down to the Spanish Steps, a quiet, romantic close to the day that works well for honeymoons in Italy. It’s one of the few places that stays up late all night long.

Christmas Food in Rome

Food is at the heart of Roman celebrations for Christmas, with special menus for Christmas Eve and for Christmas Day. Knowing what to expect is crucial. Book restaurants in advance and manage your expectations. Many establishments serve special menus for these two days, rather than the normal menu items.

Christmas Eve Dinner in Rome: The Seafood Tradition

Rome celebrates Christmas Eve with a seafood dinner in keeping with the Catholic tradition of avoiding meat on the day before Christmas. So, expect dishes of baccalà, fried calamari and pasta with clams or a seafood ragù.

Long meals consisting of several dishes served in the space of hours are typical for Christmas Eve meals, and they suit groups of friends travelling in Italy who want to linger over a table together. Restaurants catering to this tradition book up quickly. Make sure to reserve a few weeks in advance.

Christmas Dinner in Rome: Christmas Day Menu Traditions

On Christmas Day, the focus shifts to richer, meat-based dishes after the preceding night of seafood. Thus, stuffed pasta, for example, in broth, is followed by roasted meat and a variety of hearty side dishes.

Sweets will dominate at the end of the day, with panettone, pandoro and torrone served at households and restaurants across the country. Most restaurants will be offering a fixed-price holiday menu.

Restaurants Open in Rome on Christmas Day

Many independent restaurants close on December 25th. On this day, the hotel restaurants and a few trattorias in the central tourist areas offer fixed price holiday menus, instead of their regular one.

Bookings need to be made 2-3 weeks in advance as tables become unavailable quickly. It is best to call the restaurant directly to check if they are open on that date. Booking platforms are not always up to date.

From Christmas to Epiphany: La Befana and Rome’s Twelve Days of Celebration

Rome’s holiday season doesn’t end on December 25. Celebrations extend well into the new year, culminating on January 6 with Epiphany. On this day, children awake to find gifts from La Befana, a kind old witch who rides a broom throughout the city, leaving presents for the good children.

The legend says that La Befana was too busy to join the Three Wise Men on their journey to Bethlehem and has since been searching for the Christ child for centuries. The Piazza Navona market is still in operation throughout the entire holiday season, making it the perfect setting for this unique holiday season tradition.

Practical Tips for Visiting Rome at Christmas

Here are some tips to help you plan the perfect Christmas in Rome trip:

• Book flights, hotels, and tours early, especially for stays around Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, since availability tightens fast in the weeks leading up to the holidays.
• Reserve restaurants two to three weeks in advance for Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, and call directly when possible to confirm a restaurant is actually open.
• Expect reduced public transport on December 25 and January 1, with limited bus and metro schedules. Walking or taking a taxi is more reliable on these two days.
• Pack layers and waterproof shoes, since temperatures drop toward the end of December and rain is common, even if snow is rare.
• Take advantage of December’s value, since hotel rates often run lower than peak spring and summer months, despite the busier stretch around Christmas week itself.
• Check opening hours before visiting major sites, as museums and some attractions close or reduce hours on December 25 and January 1.

Conclusion

Christmas in Rome is perfect for those who want to slow down and discover the quiet side of the celebrations. In Rome you can find markets, Christmas Eve dinners, candlelit churches and the Befana Market. The Vatican holds the nativity scene and in Piazza del Popolo there is the presepi exhibition. The understated lights of the Eternal City show how Rome celebrates Christmas with tradition rather than spectacle.

If you’d like help building a tailor-made itinerary around the season’s best moments, without the guesswork of what’s open when, Greece Insiders can put together a Rome Christmas trip built entirely around how you want to experience it.